Raymond Templier - Lot 205

Raymond Templier Exceptional and extremely rare modernist brooch in 18K 750 thousandths white gold and 850 thousandths platinum, three rectangular motifs terminating in interlocking half-moons in tiers, on the left, smooth and polished in white gold, in the slightly raised center enameled in black and on the right, on platinum, entirely set with 37 old-cut diamonds in grain setting, ranging from 0.03 to 0.50 carat. Signed Raymond Templier Accompanied by its original grey suede-lined case, engraved on the inside: "Raymond Templier - Paul Templier et Fils - Joailliers Fabricants - 3 place des Victoire Paris". French master hallmark on the pin C - une déplieur - T for Charles Templier, hallmark active until December 12, 1929. Number of diamonds: 37 Estimated weight of diamonds: approx. 4-5 carats in total Dimensions: 63 x 33 mm - Gross weight: 26.10 g (accident to enamel) History : Born in Paris on April 22, 1891, Raymond Templier was the son of Jean Paul Templier and Jeanne Béjot. A student at the Ecole Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs between 1909 and 1912, he avoided mobilization during the First World War for health reasons and went straight back into the family business. An enthusiast of the Cubist movement, he offered his designs to his father. From 1921 onwards, his jewelry would play with geometric shapes by combining them: triangle, trapezoid, rectangle, round, half-moon... As his father's designer, he presented several models at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels. In 1927, at the same show, his geometrical combinations of diamonds and enamel received particular attention from the specialized press. Our brooch for sale is in platinum, white gold, enamel and old-cut diamonds. Very geometric, it alternates rectangles and half-moons in an interlocking design on different planes. The contrast of materials, the strong contrast of colors and the play of light make this a particularly modern piece of jewelry for its time. Dated 1928, thanks to its inclusion in the reference book on Raymond Templier's work written by Laurence Mouillefarine and its presentation at an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris (MAD), it is offered to the public in its original presentation case. In addition, the presence of Charles Templier's hallmark, crossed out on December 12, 1929, confirms the production period of our brooch. With its nearly five carats of old-cut diamonds, this brooch is a rich example of Raymond Templier's work. Its history is also clear: acquired by the current owner's mother from her jeweler friend, she was a great patron of the arts and a friend to artists of the time. Presented at public auction for the first time and to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the opening of the 1925 Exposition des Arts Déco, this brooch is of museum-quality quality and is sure to attract the attention of major collectors of this exceptionally creative period.